January 27th, 2010
I love being 41. Wisdom, deeper friendships, muscle maturity, great jewelry. Plus, there is dignity in passing on fashion trends because you were there, rocking it the first time around. (Shiny aerobics outfits, legwarmers, headbands, a la Olivia Newton John; acid wash, skinny, zippered ankle jeans tucked into turquoise Zodiac cowboy boots; checkerboard Vans, slouchy, shoulder bearing Flashdance sweatshirts, leggings, wide belts, big Jody Watley hoop earrings … anyone but me?)
Not a fan, however, of looking older than I am. Anyone but me? (haha, love this expression!) Call me vain, I don’t love the word, but I can take it.
By now you know too that I’m a believer in the protection that sunscreen provides from the damaging affects of the sun. Well, believer is putting it mildly. I’m obsessed. I sunscreen every inch of my body and practically white out my ankle tattoo when it’s exposed. Does anyone but me think a blurred, faded out tattoo that you can’t tell what it even is any more make us look old?
Slather on sunscreen, protect my face and body from the risk of skin cancer, burning, and – the real reason I was motivated to forgo the skin firming illusion of a tan and put on this glop that inevitably found a way to burn the crap out of my eye – premature aging, sun spots, darkening my melasma again, wrinkles, and crepey skin.
It was easy. But, turns out, sunscreen is more complicated than it used to be. Read on as I finish up my series on sunscreen with the ins and outs of UV protection.
Basically, the sun ages and damages the skin by weakening elastic collagen fibers, by preventing stem cells from rejuvenating the injured area, and by causing free radicals to damage DNA. All of which is not good. We need to see about putting a big fat stop on this kind of stuff.
There are two types of UV radiation, UVA and UVB (UVC wavelengths are filtered out by our atmosphere, at least for now). UVA rays penetrate into the deeper dermis, and these are the ones that cause the premature aging and bad things to happen to the skin. UVB rays penetrate the epidermis, the upper layer, and cause burning and contribute to skin cancer. So we need protection from both.
(Remember in last week’s post that SPF refers to protection from UVB rays only and that products indicating broad screen protection cover you for UVA and UVB rays.)
Physical blockers – Hats, longs sleeves, and the gorgeous pool umbrellas I got from my obsession w/ protecting myself from the sun, but also ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These mineral sunblocks literally sit on the skin and both UVA and UVB rays reflect off them. And since they’re mineral rather than a chemical, are less irritating to sensitive skin. For the most part, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the safest active sunscreen ingredients that you’ll find available in the local CVS. Except now, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are being micronized into tiny nanoparticles. This is great in that the mineral ingredients are transparent and no longer opaque, so it doesn’t go on so diaper baby white or take near as long to rub in. (Remember the beef jerky colored life guards with the white nose coat? Wonder what his face looks like now?) The thing is, the nanoparticles are extremely tiny, 1/10,000 the diameter of a strand of hair, and they may be able to penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream. So instead of just sitting on top of your skin, it may be being absorbed into your body. Research has indicated that when absorbed, these ingredients can generate free radical damage. Most studies done on nanoparticles do not indicate penetration through human skin and those in which absorption has been shown, the related risk (creation of free radical damage to the cell DNA, the very same cell DNA we are trying to protect from the sun in the first place!) has not adequately been demonstrated.
Chemical sunscreens – Ok, here we go. These ingredients filter either UVB or UVA radiation. Instead of creating a physical barrier that deflects ultraviolet rays, it converts the damaging UV rays into heat that then dissipates from the surface of your skin, preventing the radiation from reaching the connective skin tissue and the DNA in your cells. This chemical reaction consumes the sunscreen ingredients. So rather than wearing off, it actually gets used up. The more sun you are getting, the faster it is being used up, which is why it needs to be reapplied often. How often? Well, who knows? There is data that says it degrades to useless w/ in 30 minutes of sun exposure and other that indicates it is effective for up to 7 hrs. So, reapply “often,” like when training outside, after swimming, sweating a lot, wiping off said sweat, etc. In the summer, under my awesome umbrellas, I reapply every hour-ish. It’s still hot and sweaty in the shade!
Not all chemical sunscreens protect from the full UVA spectrum; most protect the skin from just the shortwave UVA rays. Avobenzone and Mexoryl SX are the only chemical ingredient that shields the full spectrum UVA waves, but it isn’t photostable. Most sunscreen products that use avobenzone as an active ingredient have added a photostabilizer so that it won’t degrade quickly in sunlight, and give it a cool name like Helioplex.
To complicate things further, there is concern because some studies have indicated that chemical sunscreens can mimic estrogen and disrupt the endocrine system and generate free radical damage to the cell DNA, the very same cell DNA we are trying to protect from free radical damage caused by the sun. However, other research indicates that any penetration of commonly used sunscreen agents in human skin was too low to cause any significant toxicity. In other words, the potential for problems with chemical sunscreens causing problems happened under controlled lab conditions, not in actual usage.
So, like hydroquinone, after running through the potential risks and side effects, I’m feeling a bit silly and conflicted about using it. Research will surely be on going, but for now it seems the jury is still out. I’m listening with an open mind, but so far, my mind hasn’t been changed. Here’s why … The risk of damage and it’s affects to the appearance of my skin from leaving it unprotected is just not worth it – to me.
What I do, and what I wholeheartedly recommend you do to protect your skin from unwanted, premature aging caused by the sun is to use a broad sprectrum sunscreen every day, every minute that the sun is in the sky, from your collarbone up w/ an SPF 15 at the very least. If you’re going out into the sun to train, go for a higher SPF, cover all exposed skin (and tattoos) and reapply often. Choose a product with ingredients that you aren’t sensitive or allergic to. Check out the information, both sides, and make a choice that is best for you.
Let me know what you think. Anyone but me obsessed w/ sun protection? What does your sun protection regime look like?
Sources:
http://www.cosmeticscop.com/sunscreen-ingredients-zinc-oxide-titanium-dioxide.aspx?filter=itemtype%3acontent
(The Cosmetics Cop, Paula Begoun. I’m in love with this woman. She’s sensible, smart, and too grown up and entirely too cool for BS. The “studies” and “research” cited for this post are all listed in various articles on her website, beautypedia.com)
Simple Skin Beauty, Ellen Marmur, MD (book)
You Being Beautiful, Michael F Roizen, MD and Mehmet C Oz, MD (book)
Tags: Beauty, Health, skin care, sunscreen
I could do better. A lot better. I really do the very least which is wearing an SPF moisturizer…most of the time. Is there a brand that you can’t live without?
So here’s a question for you, what are you rocking right now for a facial sunscreen, what spf is it and is that a chemical one or a physical blocker? Give me something I can go buy right now. I need to stop looking like a weathered deck in someone’s backyard.LOL:o)
Haha Joanna!
Great minds think alike! Let’s pump her for all she knows.lol ;o)
Good morning ladies! Thanks for the questions. This and more are going to be answered thoroughly in another blog post, but for now, here goes …
In the dead of January when I’m not in the sun and my face is much less oily, I use Olay Complete Ageless skin renewing uv lotion SPF 20, Make Up Forever UV Prime(er) SPF 50, and L’oreal True Match super blendable foundation make up (this is good stuff, check it out if you haven’t yet) SPF 17. On the body, I just finish the random bottles of block leftover from summer. All of this can be purchased at any drugstore, grocery store, or at Ulta.com. Make Up Forever is sold at Sephora.
I’ve had good experiences w/ Neutrogena, Coppertone and Clinique too.
Try several to see what works for your skin. Jodi, I know you have a load of make up you’ve tried and so sun protection shouldn’t be any different. Did you say you look like a weathered deck? bwahahaha! Puhleez. You don’t have a line on your face mama!
Most products I mentioned use chemical sunscreens as the actives, but the primer and foundation use titanium dioxide. The body sunscreens probably use a chemical sunscreen. I’m getting it all!
PS – ask away! I love talking products!
Another thing is that just about any sunscreen product from a well known, reputable line is going to be effective and do the job. The selection comes down to what works for you … does it irritate your skin, does it worsen oiliness, does it work under your make up, does it creep into your eyes, are you allergic, can you afford it, etc.
After you find something you like, then it’s easy – just USE it consistently.
Girl, are you kidding me? Years of abuse. I used to spend summers training clients in the parking lot of the facility that I worked at with no sun protection and the hot, black asphalt just making matters worse for me. Now I have spots. And lots of them. I was minding my own business in a toy store the other day leaning over looking for an item for my 4 y.o. on the bottom rack when a kid walked up to me and connected my face spots with a marker. At that point, I became concerned…;o)
I happen to be a sephora addict myself. Have you ever tried the product Hope in a Jar by Philosophy? I believe that it has a SPF of 20. I have been a little apprehensive to try it simply because my skin is so sensitive. I have been using Neutrogena sunscreen/moisturizer for over a year now on my face and it seems to be helping.. I think? Although I am only in my early 20s, I would really like to get into a habit now to prevent any damage in the future. (You would have a heart attack if you knew that I just canceled my tanning salon membership 6 months ago…eeeek!) Also, are there any after-sun skin products that I should be using with a SPF? Perhaps at the end of day after I take off my makeup? This treatment would not necessarily be used to treat burns or sun damage.
Kristina!!
YAY!! You came to visit here! Good to see you.:-D
Wait…did you say…Sephora? I am a whore-a for Sephora… Going to get on the online catalogue now…;o)
Hey Kristina! Oh, wow, my heart! A tanning MEMBERSHIP! The mom in me is ready to cry, but the pro will just say congratulations and good job. Now, go and sin no more.
Hope in a Jar … haven’t used it personally but I looked it up (beautypedia.com) and there are a few issues … 1, due to the jar packaging the antioxidants are exposed to light and air which will cause the whole jar to degrade sooner than it should and 2, the exfoliating ingredients won’t be effective due to it being the wrong ph. It’s pricey too. Sun protection doesn’t have to be expensive. Find a daily moisturizer w/ broad spectrum protection and a range of antioxidants that doesn’t break the bank (Avon, Olay, Neutrogena, etc.)
You don’t need sun protection when the sun isn’t up, like if you do your face to go out at night or before bed. However bedtime is prime time for treatments. Like the rest of the body, skin heals, grows and rejuvenates while we sleep.
There are lots of resources, print and on the web, to find products to address your skin concerns. Don’t rely on marketing claims and advertising. You’re young so start at the beginning w/ keeping your face clean, protecting it from the sun, eating well, getting enough sleep, water and good fats. Do it for your health and looks every single day. Keep checking the mp4 site and blogs; between the five of us, we’ll get you on the right road to health and beauty (and mother you to death!)
And Jodi, true confessions, I JUST placed a Sephora order. Been a while, it was time. Don’t judge!
Thanks for the feedback. I am so glad that I decided not to make the purchase. Sometimes I have to prepare myself when I go shopping that although product A may be the best solution, product B for half, may be the best solution for my wallet. I have to admit Whole Foods is one of the only places where I refuse to walk in with a budget. As a recent college grad and getting my recent college grad salary (insert sarcasm here) … I simply cannot justify purchasing foods that will do a half ass job for my body. Clothing on the other hand… I get by with a little help from my momma : ) she is one of the few women that I know that realizes that those Prada wedges or Yves Saint Laurent sling backs are a necessity for good health and prosperity… ; o )
Sadly, price and brand do not guarantee quality when it comes to skin, hair care and make up. Never had a pair of YSL slingbacks (YET!), but my experience w/ their skin care is that way underdelivers for it’s high price.
I love that you get it regarding food quality.
Thank for the info, Seanna, and the chat everyone! I’m a 30 SPF girl for the most part. The stuff that sits on you and makes you look 20 shades lighter until it finally soaks in. I have enough agita over that, much less using something potentially estrogenic or otherwise toxic. Who gives a rip if I have crow’s feet or not if my liver craps out, right? LOL I actually am of the belief that somewhat of a tan is a good thing b/c a burn is not. I’m not talkin’ like Magda from Something About Mary, but enough to keep me from burning those inevitable times I forget to reapply or am caught outside too long by something unexpected. That happens in my world. More importantly, I understand the necessity of those UVBs for Vitamin D production (supplements are NOT a replacement) for my immune system, cancer prevention (it’s an immunity failure, after all), and warding off depression. There’s a reason people have the blues bad by Feb/March and that certain cancers (colon and breast) that are being attributed to low serum Vit D are rising way faster than skin cancers. Other benefits apply, but I’ll save it for my own piece on the sun. I don’t mess with my face and neck, mind you. There’s enough of the rest of me to expose. All of that said, I still rock the white stuff, my awesome big-brimmed pink SPF hat, a terrific diet (HUGE for skin protection from any damage, some say most important), and shade. I’m not a fool!
Antoher thing is the American tendency to shower all of the time. Guilty as charged, washing natural protection down the drain. Twice a day even! What price we pay for smelling good, eh? 
Rearead that and just want to clarify the sadly …
sadly, we aren’t guaranteed quality w/ a high price or prestigious label. That means that,
happily, high quality products are available at reasonable prices!
Hi Heather! Hey, baby, I’ve been waiting for you to chime in today and I CANNOT wait for your day in the sun
to put in your two cents about vitamin D, liver damage, and a tan actually being protective (don’t disagree w/ the tan part but it offers only around spf 2-4).
I’m relieved to know that you do wear sunscreen on your pretty face. The Magda reference was perfect! (”First chink in the armour Pat!”) I laughed out loud! Yeah, don’t want to look like that. Yikes!
Keep wearing those hats, shielding your skin and highlighting your gorgeous eyes. You know I’d have one on all the time if my head wasn’t so large. haha!